Jewelry Hallmarks Guide


Jewelry hallmarks are of great importance in many ways. They indicate that the manufacturer and designer have registered a trademark for sale. It is of great importance in deciphering the brand value of these brands. Some countries have a registry record in this regard. On the other hand, in countries with no registration, the process of identifying jewelry can be difficult. It is always important and necessary to register the properties of jewels. Some countries use various stamps and symbols to determine their own. For example, while you see animal-headed motifs in jewelry produced in France, it is possible to see numbers in their system in jewelry produced in England.

A hallmark consists of certain mandatory signs. These requirements are to specify who made the jewelry, what the guarantee fineness standards are, the Assay Office where the jewelry was marked and tested, and the year the jewelry was tested. While a different policy was followed until 1998, after 1998, the date letter of these mandatory signs was made optional. However, the other three signs continue as a must today.

Elegant, high-quality, and beautiful jewelry requires distinctive marks. And this requires internationally valid standards. This authentication process confirms and supports the quality of the jewelry.



What Is Hallmark?


The ornament on the jewelry is a reflection of the personal style of the designer or the wearer. These decorations are a great indicator of every taste and creativity. And as we all know, jewelry has at first glance be the definitive definition of individuals’ status for centuries. But in today’s modern age, it doesn’t work that way. It is unlikely that we will understand the cultural difference between the classes by looking at the choice of jewelry. Besides that, jewelry still manifests itself as a hallmark of a distinction. Therefore, it is very important to prove its authenticity when purchasing a gem. At this point, we need to pay attention to the hallmarks.

When looking for a piece of authentic jewelry, it is an important detail to know exactly what you want, which features to look for, and what to look for. Making a conscious purchase ultimately ensures that you are shopping for a piece of safe and authentic jewelry. Regardless of the circumstances, it will be in your best interest to know the story behind the jewelry you own and the features of your jewelry. So first of all it is important to know what is what, which feature means what, and what hallmarks it has.

Jewelers place a distinctive stamp on them to indicate the authenticity of their jewelry. Over the centuries these stamps have confirmed the legitimacy of jewelers. In this way, there is not much question left about where the jewelry came from. Although these stamps are also small, the jewelry stamped, these stamps have a very serious and important effect. It is usually found on those made from silver, gold, and platinum.

In 1906, the National Gold and Silver Stamping Act were made mandatory. This law required jewelers to add purity marks to their products. However, this system has not been implemented in this way all over the world. This law, which was introduced in America in 1906, was implemented in England in the 14th century. The French, on the other hand, followed this policy since the 13th century and entered the market long before these great states. As we understand from here, systems to prove the authenticity of jewelry have been available for many years. That’s why it’s important to know what the hallmarks mean for any jewelry you own or want to own.



What Does a Hallmark Show?


Jewelry is tested and marked in specific assay offices to see if it meets legal standards. Previously, this marking process was done by stamping, with the developing technology, it is done with modern laser. This marking indicates the name of the manufacturer, where the product was tested, the degree of purity of the jewelry material, when the product was produced, and whether it was produced for a specific purpose.

These signs are made in a predetermined order. These borders are a horizontal line whose height does not exceed 1.5 mm. From left to right respectively, the sponsorship, degree of purity, and assay office information are processed. While these ones are mandatory, if there is a feature to be added other than these, it is completely optional. Usually, these marks are added to the jewelry to be attached in an inconspicuous place in order not to spoil the aesthetics of the jewelry.



Compulsory Hallmarks


Sponsor/Makers Mark


This hallmark represents the registered company that produces, designs, or ships the jewelry. Every jeweler and designer has its own unique mark. This authenticity will help you find the original source of your jewelry piece and easily follow it up in case of any problems.

Jewelry designers and jewelers own private brands and these brands are usually registered. This registration promotes their wider recognition. This hallmark provides convenience to both the jeweler and the jeweler to monitor the authenticity and authenticity of the jewelry. If a jewel has a stamp on it, it ensures the quality of that jewel is preserved and at the same time prevents you from being copied. It protects the labor of the designer and the manufacturer. Both the brand reputation and the originality of the designer’s art are confirmed. This is proof that both have become commercial. All this becomes the most distinctive hallmark of a manufacturer or designer brand.



Purity Marks / Millesimal Fineness Mark


The purity mark is one of the first signs to look for on your jewelry when purchasing or viewing jewelry. This sign shows the percentage of precious metal used in making the jewelry.

This hallmark indicates how many percentages of precious metal your jewelry contains. Each metal has a different rating, a different code, and a different number. The jewelry is always embroidered with the lowest value obtained during testing. This is important for you to know that your jewelry is not always as stated. Alloy values may vary. However, there is a set standard for every metal available on the market.

  • Gold – 9ct (375), 14ct (585), 18ct (750) and 22ct (916)
  • Silver – sterling silver (925) and Britannia silver (958)
  • Platinum – 950
  • Palladium – 500 and 950

As we all know, gold is a very soft material in its purest form and it is not suitable for jewelry. That’s why in ancient times gold was given to house servants. Jewelry made of gold was quite suitable for wear and tear. With the development of technology, the structure of the gold was strengthened by adding extra material under it. Gold has been made more durable. Thanks to the new alloys created, gold has become a preferred material in the jewelry industry. When such an alloy was created, the amount of metal contained in it began to be used to determine the degree of purity. This purity began to be expressed as carats.



Jewelry Identification Marks


While verifying the time in which a piece of jewelry originated and designed, the era in which it belongs, as well as many other important features such as craftsman’s technique, you definitely need to see jewelry identification marks on jewelry.

Although it is made romantic or funny in today’s movies, jewelry heists have always caused major problems throughout history. And this theft caused the thieves to try to rescue the jewelry by copying them. This is where hallmarks come in handy. Because these original hallmarks help verify the time the jewelry was produced, the period it belongs to, the craftsman’s technique, how it was created, and many other similar features.



Town Marks


In the historical process, assay offices were opened to increase financial prosperity, to introduce a mandatory marking system, and to protect the rights of the materials produced by jewelry masters worldwide. The town mark appeared at this point. Because the signs used in towns had to be introduced and distinguished by everyone. Over time, this town mark became the pictorial symbol of the town or city and became even more distinctive.

Optional Hallmarks


Date Letter Hallmark


A new stamp is created by the jewelers on the 1st of January every year and this stamp is used until the end of that year. At the end of that year, its use is removed and the stamp itself is destroyed. These dates were mandatory before 1999 but were made optional in 1999. That’s why you may not find this stamp on most of the jewelry you can find on the market right now. As the stamp changes every year, the font and typeface also change. Therefore, it may not be possible to understand exactly when the product was tested.

The design and style of the jewelry can be used to describe the age and year it was produced. This hallmark is very important in determining the period to which jewelry pieces belong. It is a distinctive feature. It is a way of checking the authenticity and authenticity of a gem. At the same time, the control process can be done by referring to another jewelry produced in that age and year.



  • Pocket Watch Makers Marks
    • Although the pocket watch is not preferred in today’s modern world, it was a very popular piece of jewelry in the 1800s. Since wearing a watch on the wrist was seen as feminine, pocket watches became a piece of very useful and preferred jewelry by men. However, it was a very delicate and complex jewel. Its fine metal structure made the decoration of pocket watches very detailed and bold. Pocket watches were often family heirlooms. In today’s world, pocket watches have left their place to wristwatches and even phones. It has become far from useful. In short, it has begun to be considered antique jewelry. They are especially popular with antique lovers because they represent the Victorian Period very well.

Traditional Fineness Mark


Although the main marks are prepared in accordance with their standards in the analysis offices in London, they are designed and applied on-demand in other countries and elsewhere.



Jewelers’ Marks List


Special, distinctive, and identifying features can be identified and matched using a list of jewelry marks. You can imagine that in previous centuries these lists were very difficult to look at, and even these lists were very difficult to find. However, in today’s modern and digital world, it has become quite easy to find these lists and make matches. In this way, you can understand where your jewelry comes from and what kind of piece it is. It allows you to know and recognize the features of your jewelry with all its details. A jewelers’ mark list also contains the manufacturer’s stamp, date and place of manufacture, and information about the composition and composition of your jewelry.

Gold Jewelry Marks


Gold jewelry already has different inscriptions and numbers engraved, apart from the ones you want to be engraved. These are indispensable for your gold jewelry and one of the most important hallmarks. For example, when you see “750”, you can understand that the gemstone on your gold jewelry is 18 carats. While “585” means 14 carats, “417” means 10 carats.



Silver Jewelry Marks


There is a different identification process in silver jewelry as well as in gold jewelry. While this definition is made over carats in gold jewelry, it is given as a percentage in silver jewelry. If the jewel is a real silver piece, it must have a “925” stamp. This means that your jewelry has at least 92.5% silver content.

Costume Jewelry Marks


Costume jewelry is always the best reflection of an era, an event, or a person’s story. An indicator that there is more than just an ornament is costume jewelry. Because they are costume jewelry, it is important to know what features to look for in order to understand their origin and originality. It is important to know that the content of the metal is not specified, although the markings on the costume jewelry are identical to other jewelry pieces of the jeweler and designer from which it was produced.



How Jewellery is Hallmarked


There are currently two different types of hallmarking that are applied and accepted by the jewelry world. These are stamp and laser. The most used marking method since ancient times is stamping. Although not ideal for some jewelry pieces, this method was quite popular. If the jewelry metal has a delicate structure, this stamping method may cause the material to become distorted. With years of wear on some jewelry pieces, the stamped mark can become clearly visible even from the reverse side of the stamped face.

As a result of all these disadvantages, the laser has become a more preferred marking method in today’s modern and technological world. Because it is not desirable to distort the shape of the jewels that have spent large sums of money, the jewels that are specially designed, and the delicate jewels. The laser marking method does not distort the shape of the jewels. The jewels remain in the state they were originally designed and manufactured. No matter how fine or how complex the laser marking method is, it does not damage the jewelry metal. It works very finely and is almost impossible to see without using a magnifying glass.

It is possible to say that laser marking has one disadvantage. This disadvantage is that there is no possibility of correction after hallmarking. If a wrong drawing or an incorrect marking is made, it must be returned to the assay office and the assay office must be inspected again.



How A Customer Can Identify Jewelry Hallmarks


When you decide to buy a new piece of jewelry, you should pay attention to the hallmarks of your jewelry. These marks include the amount of metal it contains, the type of metal it contains, its origin, time, designer, and manufacturer. These marks can be found on all kinds of jewelry. Usually, it can be embroidered on the inside of a necklace, ring, or bracelet or into an earring. If your jewelry is very old, that is, it is over 100 years old, its stamp is likely to wear out, but this does not mean it has no stamp. The first requirement for all jewelry to be found on the market is to have these marks.

There are some generally accepted rules and signs around the world. If you have gold jewelry, you should see markings like 18k, 14k, 10k, 750, 585, or 375. If you have silver jewelry, you should see markings like 925 or 800. Although there are many distinctive features, this is the most clearly distinguished by users.

These distinctive features are also used as a criterion in evaluating the authenticity of your jewelry. In addition, you should know that although you see the brand mark on the costume jewelry, it is not authentic. Because there is no generally accepted mark for costume jewelry.



If you own antique jewelry and do not see a stamp on it, you should evaluate the value of your jewelry accordingly. On the other hand, if your jewelry looks brand new and you still do not see a stamp, you should evaluate it accordingly. At this point, your jewelry features are designed for you and just for you.

Controlling the weight of your jewelry is also considered a hallmark. This feature is especially important when shopping for chains, bracelets, and necklaces. Because gold and silver are heavier than other materials and are easier to distinguish. Also, real gold is very smooth and heavy. When determining the value of this style of jewelry, it is thought that the longer and heavier they are, the more valuable they will be.

Don’t forget to examine the nails in the making of your jewelry. Some costume jewelry use glue instead of nails when the stones are placed in place, and this is not a highly recommended method. Therefore, you should be careful not to buy such nail-free jewelry. If it is not made with a real nail, it will not count as a precious gem by standards. A precious gem needs to have nails well set and the gemstone beautifully framed, albeit intricate. Pearls are the exception at this point. It is important to handle pearls without damaging them.



Pocket Edition Jackson’s Hallmarks – Ian Pickford


If you are interested in jewelry hallmarks’ history, this is exactly what you need. You can find detailed information, photos, and extensive knowledge about jewelry hallmarks. It is a great reference book for jewelry enthusiastic and jewelry producers. It has a lot of great information in it and even more than you want to know. It is a guide that has a very useful size. It basically mentions the jewelry standards in England, Scotland, and Ireland. It is a comprehensive show and description of all signs and hallmarks published and used to date. It is the perfect reference for jewelers, traders, collectors, and academics. Brands have signed in alphabetical order. The names of the jewelry manufacturers, the values ​​of the jewelry, and the expertise of the jewelry manufacturers are also included in the guide. https://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Jacksons-Hallmarks-Ian-Pickford/dp/1851491694/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Pocket+Edition+Jackson%27s+Hallmarks+-+Ian+Pickford&qid=1611234340&sr=8-1



SWAROVSKI Women’s Angelic Necklace & Bracelet Green and White Crystal Jewelry Collection


It is a beautiful, stylish and elegant bracelet. It is possible to find all the necessary hallmarks on it. First of all, it is a worldwide known brand, so it is not possible to release them without obligatory hallmarks. It is a timeless piece that every woman has to have in their jewelry collection. Its elegance and versatility make this bracelet fashionable and most preferred. It is definitely worth the money you are going to spend on. https://www.amazon.com/SWAROVSKI-Angelic-Bracelet-Crystals-Adjustable/dp/B08834QLPC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=expensive+jewelry&qid=1611232992&sr=8-4



Next Level Jewelry Authentic Solid Sterling Silver Rope Diamond-Cut Braided Twist Link .925 ITProLux Necklace Chains 1.5MM – 5.5MM, 16″ – 30″, Made In Italy, Men & Women


It is a silver sterling chain for both men and women. The hallmarks are engraved by the laser method. So, it is not possible to see those hallmarks by eyes directly. You need special tools or you can take your chain to the jeweler in order to understand its value. It is a great gift alternative as well. It is very comfortable to wear and it is resistant to water. Next Level is a trustable brand. So, it is not possible to find these products without any hallmarks on the market. We can say that it is very valuable according to assay offices standards. https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Sterling-Diamond-Cut-ITProLux-Necklace/dp/B07MP5SLCC/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=expensive+jewelry&qid=1611232992&sr=8-6


Savaş Ateş

I like reading books. I like to read about jewelry too. After reading a lot of books about it, I have started to visit jewelry manufacturers and stores. It is my number 1 hobby.

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